Stem Angles and Steerer Tube Spacers

Part A: Stem Angle and Bar Height Change

By playing around with stem angle, we could achieve the ideal handlebar height in situations where:

• The steerer tube was cut too short and there's no possibility to increase handlebar height using spacers.
  
• The frame Stack is too tall and we couldn't lower the handlebar height enough.

If you're interested in knowing how much difference in handlebar height when a stem is flipped upside-down, or when swapping with a different angle stem, here's a reference guide for you:

Quick explanation on how to read the chart above:

i) Stem Flipping:

With a 80mm & 6 degree stem in the negative position (slanting down), we will get a 17mm increase in handlebar bar height when flipping the stem to positive position (slanting up). 

ii) Changing Stem Angle:

When we change a 100mm 6 degree stem to a 100mm 17 degree stem (both in negative position) the handlebar height is lowered by 17mm.





Part B: Measuring Steerer Tube Spacers

Sometimes i noticed many would make a mistake by not including the headset cover thickness when mentioning steerer tube spacer height.

As there is no common headset cover thickness, although bike manufacturers usually include a 15mm tall cover with frames, but we do get the occasional 10mm, 20mm or even 25mm cover being installed.

If we solely mention the steerer tube spacers without including headset cover, the handlebar height can be very much in the wrong position when we transfer the fit numbers onto a different frame, and this would cause upper body strain.

Here's a diagram showing the correct measurement for steerer tube spacer height:

Alrighty, that's all for now folks, hopefully the info is useful to you and wish you all a great cycling experience out there!

Feel free to contact me if you are interested in my bike fitting services:

Chuah +6012-232-4868 

chuahcy@yahoo.com

www.LittleRockCycles.com 

www.fb.com/LittleRockBikeFit

One-Click Direct Watsapp: https://wasap.my/60122324868

Introducing BioMatch Bike Fit System 3-day Course

Good day to all!

The focus of this course is to equip students with fundamental knowledge and skill-set to conduct bike fits by truly understanding both “form” and “function” fit methods. Form-based fitting being the most common bike fitting method, they provide fitters with a set of statistical range to setup body posture, some of them are as follows: • Bodily measurements are keyed into formulas to estimate fit dimensions (stem length, saddle height, etc). A famous example is Lemond’s method of: inseam length x 0.883 = saddle height from bottom bracket. • Angle-based fitting with static measurement using goniometer, or dynamic measurements with computer assistance (i.e. Retul, etc). Function-based fitting focuses more on providing personalized fit to customers, and not forcing them to adhere to a form of posture governed by statistical measurements. This method requires students to: • Truly understand that a cyclist’s posture is influenced by connection between gravity, cyclist’s physical capability and body weight distribution across the bicycle. • Identify unnecessary muscle strain on upper body (i.e. core or abs) that do not contribute to pedaling efforts, and introduce Posture Reset as correction steps. Posture Reset is a systematic guide to recondition muscle memory and redistribute body weight across the body more effectively when cycling. • Analyze possible causes of discomfort from customer’s feedback, and to differentiate whether the cause is from fit settings or from pedaling habits. Course Outline Day-1: • Form-based fitting theory and practical. • Foot-to-pedal interface (cleat positioning, discomfort remedy, etc). • Every students conduct a fit on fellow student with form-based methods. Day-2: • Function-based fitting and Posture Reset theory and practical. • Every student continues their fit on fellow student using newly learned methods. • Course trainer fine-tunes fits conducted earlier, allowing students to experience a personalized fit and able to distinguish the feel of a good fit from a bad one. Day-3: • Discussion on possible issues encountered as a practicing fitter. Topics include customer’s expectations, less-common physical condition, odd-ball cases, etc. • Establish an easy reference guide based on outcome from previous day’s fits. • Measure & record fitment in universal format that fitters and mechanics understand. • Frame size recommendation and fitment transfer onto different frames by manipulating Stack, Reach, Saddle Clamp Setback and Seat-tube Angle.

The price for the course is RM3800 (Malaysian currency) and held in my Little Rock BikeFit Studio location in KL. Arrangements can be made to hold courses in bike shops, sport centers or even lecture halls.

Feel free to contact me if you are interested in this course:

Chuah +6012-232-4868 

chuahcy@yahoo.com

www.LittleRockCycles.com 

www.fb.com/LittleRockBikeFit

One-Click Direct Watsapp: https://wasap.my/60122324868

Capability, Posture and Performance

‘Buying the fastest bike in the shop’ is a common and very expensive mistake for first-time road bike buyers, though some seasoned cyclists looking for an upgrade might fall into this trap too. Most of the time, spending top dollar on top bike does not necessarily bring the best to your performance if the frame geometry is not well matched to your natural cycling posture. In this article, we will explore in detail the factors that should be considered while on a search for a bike that you can best perform with.

Posture & Performance

As most of us know, a well fitted bicycle helps maintain a comfortable cycling posture that allows consistent performance along the journey, and time saving can be achieved without the need for frequent resting stops to stretch out sore and painful muscles. The key influence to our body’s cycling posture is our cycling capability.

Cycling Capability – Pedaling Effort

As cycling movements are dynamic, our body naturally adjusts its weight distribution between contact points to maintain body balance while we pedal. A portion of body weight will be taken up by the legs when we crank, and remainder of it distributed through upper body onto saddle and handlebar.

When a heavier gear pedaling effort is being practiced, a larger portion of body weight is distributed to the pedals, which in turn relaxes upper torso by bearing less weight burden. This heavier gear pedaling method is the most efficient as body weight is used for propelling the bike, and leads to a lower lean angle that’s commonly associated with road biking.

Other the other hand, spinning with lighter gears will naturally straighten the body into a more upright posture as pelvis bears more weight, which is common for beginners, leisure cyclists or simply cyclists who are too exhausted to maintain a consistent pedaling effort. This brings us to next part of cycling capability – which is effort sustainability.

Cycling Capability - Effort Sustainability

Cycling beyond usual training distances, cycling too fast or pedaling too heavily early in a long distance ride are the culprits to discomforts that emerge when the miles build up. Why is it so?

Imagine yourself as a bucket of water with a faucet tap attached to the side. The bucket size is your endurance level and amount of water flowing out of the faucet will be your pedaling effort. On normal days when you train, your fitness level will improve. The further your ride, the better your endurance level become, basically expanding the bucket size. If you practice strength based training by pedaling heavier gears, you’ll increase capability for higher pedaling effort, just like changing to bigger faucet to allow more water flow when you need it.

Keeping a consistent pedaling effort across the distance you intend to ride is simply controlling how much water is released through the faucet. Cycling too fast or pedaling too heavily early in a long ride is basically letting more water out from the faucet and draining the bucket in a faster rate, emptying it early before you reach the end of the ride.

What happens when the bucket dries up? There will be no water flowing out of the faucet, similarly your legs will be out of energy and become too tired to pedal, and possibility of having leg cramps when continuing to cycle forcefully.

How will this affect body posture? Without strength to uphold body weight at the legs, we will naturally resort to spinning lighter gears and transition to upright posture. The more tired your legs are, the more upright your posture will be. When upper torso gets so upright that the saddle and handlebar are beyond your natural reach, holding onto them simply overstretches the limbs and causes discomforts, numbness and pains at the lower-back, shoulders and arms.

Hence, performance itself is not measured by how strong the legs are, rather it should include one's capability in maintaining a consistent pedaling effort that allows minimum change in body posture across the ride journey.

Summary

In this first part of a series of articles looking into getting a bike frame that would bring the best performance out of your cycling, we address how cycling capability affects your natural posture during rides.

In the next issue, we will look into how positioning of contact points affects your posture and how to differentiate bike frame designs that would fit you best to gain maximum performance from it.

*Written by Chuah of Little Rock BikeFit Studio. First published in Cycling Malaysia Magazine as article contribution.

Contact: Chuah +60122324868

http://www.LittleRockCycles.com

http://fb.com/LittleRockBikeFit/

Bike Fitting: The Ergonomics in Cycling

*Written by Certified Bike Fitter C.Y. Chuah of Little Rock Cycles and first published on Cycling Malaysia Magazine Issue #32 Page 106.

Ergonomics can be loosely described as how well an item is designed and engineered to fit the user comfortably. A product with good ergonomics allows the user to operate continuously for a longer time period, subsequently increasing efficiency without the risk of injury.

Everyone understands the importance of ergonomics when we talk about pillows. The pillow of correct shape and size will give you better sleep without neck-pain. And the wrong one will make you wanting a neck brace for the rest of the day after waking up. If we can readily accept to replace a pillow that is not comfortable to sleep on, then why should we tolerate discomfort when we cycle?

Cycling discomfort like pain, stiffness and numbness are signs that a bicycle is not properly fitted to the cyclist. Riding a badly fitted bicycle will cause prolonged discomfort to the body especially at the joints, muscles and along the spine. If left unresolved, it will lead to long term damage and injuries to tendons, soft-tissues and bone structure. So how do we prevent discomfort when cycling? Here is where bike fitting comes into play.

Bike fitting is process where a bike fitter observes and analyses movements of a cyclist on a bicycle, then put forward reasonable adjustments to the bike which allows the cyclist to pedal as efficiently as possible in a posture where he/she can sustain comfortably throughout the cycling journey. A fitting process can be very quick or extremely lengthy depending on how detailed the fitting session is required.

Basic fitting sessions usually focus more on setting up the cycling posture by using generalized measurement guidelines, which can be easily found on the internet and commonly passed on from one cyclist to another. These guidelines are useful for first-time bicycle buyers or beginners. However, when they start to ride further and train more frequent, the limitations of these generalised settings will start to show itself.

The reason for this shortcoming is because every single person has anatomical differences as compared to another, and these guidelines will only be sufficient to put a cyclist within a tolerable range of fitment, and might not be the most comfortable (thus less efficient) for him/her. Once a cyclist reaches this stage, they will have to move on to more advanced and personalized fitting.

Advance bike fitting sessions are usually more detailed and work towards solving individualised issues which includes analysing and making compensations to natural anatomy inconsistencies (i.e. natural foot-tilt and leg-length-difference), and functional deficiences caused by long term injury (i.e. joint dislocation). Also the bike fitment will take into consideration a cyclist’s performance goals (distance vs sprints), capability (strength vs stamina) and training program (frequency, intensity and distance).

With a properly fitted bicycle, cycling will become very enjoyable and cyclists will consistently feel that they are far more capable of pushing harder or go further during their training rides. Bike fitting puts the body in the most natural riding position possible and allows the major muscles groups to function with the least strain.

The upper torso region including lower back, shoulders and neck will be in a relaxed state allowing control of natural breathing and the head has much greater rotation flexibility. Steering control feels almost as easy as extending your hand for a handshake and even with some weight loading on the handlebars, the arms and elbows are not locked and remain flexible to manoeuvre the bike. Pedalling strokes will be fluid and body remains nimble throughout the journey.

The current market rate for bike fitting sessions ranges from RM120 to RM800 (and sometimes more). However, pricing alone does not ensure the effectiveness of a fit, as factors such as store operation overhead costs and investment on support equipment affect the rates, too. It is best to discuss with a bike fitter your expectations beforehand and know the scope of work they offer for the price you pay. Go the extra mile by asking “what if” questions, especially on follow up services after the initial fitting. Some are more flexible in terms of offering free follow up services within certain time frame while some will charge extra.

After completing a bike fit session, don’t be shy to communicate with your bike fitter on your progress and provide feedback on any oddities that arise after the fit. Feedback is essential for a bike fitter to further analyse and fine-tune settings they made on your bike to bring you closer to the perfect fitment.

~ End ~



To understand more about bike fitting, please visit:

www.littlerockcycles.com

www.Facebook.com/LittleRockCycles



For further information on pricing & contact, go here:

http://littlerockcycles.blogspot.com/2014/08/pricing-and-what-to-bring-along.html



Contact: 012-232-4868 Chuah (Watsapp/SMS or call) .

Google/Waze Location: Jalan Hujan Bukit

Located in: Taman OUG, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (nearby Bukit Jalil & Sri Petaling)


Thanks very much. Ride safe and have fun..!!

LRC Tip: Buying 1st Road Bike

Buying your first road bike

First off, I don’t sell bikes, hence my article here is meant to get a FIRST road bike that best fits you with consideration on cost vs performance. Save yourself money and get worthy purchases whenever possible..!!

During the course of writing this article I have considered to exclude aspects like weight, aerodynamics, saddle shape, damping characteristics, bottom bracket stiffness, handling response, wheelbase length, etc, as they only affect buyers looking for an upgrade, and doesn't mean anything to first time road bike buyers most of the time.

I’ll start off with bullet points, followed by detailed explanation further below so that readers can easily trace back the important points. 

Every word in bullet points is important and means something; they are not there to fill up the sentence. 

• Spend around RM1.5k maximum for FIRST road bike. Usually will be a used aluminum frame bike with 10-speed 4600-Tiagra groupset. Usually Merida, Polygon and Fuji. Be patient, you’ll find it. 
• Check bicyclebuysell.com, or mudah.my, or from member-member and otai-otai.
• How to determine frame size? There’s no definite answer if this is your first road bike. Start off by looking at height vs frame size chart from bike manufacturer website. Get 1 size smaller if in doubt.
• Borrow from friends during group rides to test for frame size. 2km of experience here and there summed up is better than none at all.

What to do AFTER buying first road bike:

1. Ride for 1-2 months, DON’T upgrade ANYTHING.
2. After (1) above, get a bike fitting session done. Upgrade parts as recommended by bike fitter.
3. After (2) above, ride for another 2-3 months, DON’T upgrade ANYTHING.
4. After (3) above, get a fit update to know your latest bike fit settings.
5. Now you can decide to sell off your RM1.5k bike without losing money and get the bling-bling brand new bike. Or keep using your properly fitted RM1.5k bike.

Now we go on to the explanation in detail. Long winded but highly packed with goodness. If you can’t digest all in one-shot, please come back and read it part-by-part.

A) Why I can’t find aluminum road bike with Tiagra groupset within RM1.5k? 

You didn’t look hard enough, or you didn’t open your mind to accept RM1.5k road bikes. My friends, customers and myself already have a few successful purchases done this way, most deals closed between RM1.1k-to-RM1.3k.

B) Why it must have at least 10-speed 4600-Tiagra groupset?

I service bikes. After servicing lot of bikes, I can safely recommend 10-speed 4600-Tiagra for a beginner bike on a cost vs performance basis. 4600-Tiagra with external shifter cables is very reliable, easy to tune, shifts easily and stays in tune for a very long time. 

This will save you a lot of headache from hearing chain-rubs or clicking noises when riding. You should be enjoying the ride, not get frustrated over an easily out-of-tune drivetrain.

Why avoid 9-speed 3500-Sora and lesser grade groupsets? They have “older” technology, don’t shift as smooth, get out of tune frequently and have stiff shifters and brakes. 

In comparison of used bikes on the market, 4600-Tiagra equipped bikes usually cost the same as 3500-Sora equipped bikes, why not go for the “free” upgrade. 

C) Why can’t I just buy an expensive bling-bling bike one-shot and be done with it?

The first road bike is usually the wrong bike with very high chance of it being of wrong SIZE or wrong TYPE. AND bike value will drop 20%-30% when you step out of the shop if you bought it new.

Choice of road bike frame SIZE and TYPE are greatly affected by a cyclist’s capability, flexibility, amount of training and rate of improvement.

Reasoning for wrong SIZE: Road biking is different from other cycling styles, we are meant to ride fast on road bikes, hence they call it racing bikes in the past. You’ll need to be consistently riding with some load on your legs even when cruising or else you’ll get pains and sores on upper body. You’re posture will be determined by how much load your legs can take. 

Stronger your legs are, more lean can be achieved (read more aero), the further your arms can reach out towards the front; hence handlebar can be placed further in front. 

Using SpeedRacer and WeekendWarrior as example and assume they are first time road bike buyers, have exactly the same body anatomy and functional characteristics. Both started with the “correctly” sized 52cm bike based on charts.

SpeedRacer loves to train hard and rides frequent, loves to score Strava personal bests on every ride. He improves very fast in strength, and very soon he’s able to lean much lower. Hence, he needs a new longer stem or a bigger frame in a short period of time.

On the contrary, WeekendWarrior loves to ride but don’t specifically train to improve, he rides average 22km/h this month, and six months later still rides at average 22km/h. His posture almost didn’t change at all. And yet, he always feels overly stretched out because his slow riding nature puts him in a more upright seating posture.

SpeedRacer progressed from 100mm stem to 130mm at end of 6 months.

WeekendWarrior will have no progress, staying at 100mm stem for the next 6 months of riding. And yet he always feel overly stretched out.

Using SpeedRacer as example again, he started off with 52cm frame and 100mm stem.

At 3 months, he’s riding with 52cm frame and 120mm stem. Or he can choose 53.5cm frame with 100mm stem. 

At 6 months, he’s riding a 52cm frame and 130mm stem, or he can choose 53.5cm frame with 120mm stem, or 55cm frame and 100mm stem.

Are you able to see the correlation between rider capability vs frame SIZE now?

Reasoning for wrong TYPE: in general there are two categories of road bike frame designs, ENDURANCE and RACE.

What’s the most notable difference between ENDURANCE and RACE bikes? 

From bike fitting point of view, it’s the Head-Tube Length. How does this affects a fit?

ENDURANCE frames generally have extra 20mm higher head-tube compared to RACE frames.

Because general population of cyclists are WeekendWarriors who do not train hard and frequent enough to achieve strength required to lean comfortably on a RACE bike. Hence the extra head-tube height helps keep the handlebar higher for weekend warriors to reach comfortably without over-stretching upper torso.

Using SpeedRacer and WeekendWarrior as example again. I mentioned they started off a 52cm bike right? But I didn’t mention the head-tube length.

As SpeedRacer improves, he doesn't only increase his reach, he has lowered his lean too. With this, he actually needs to lower the stem and handlebar too. If SpeedRacer started with ENDURANCE frame, he might not be able to lower the stem enough to suit his lean angle. Hence, he will feel the cockpit is too cramp when riding an ENDURANCE frame, that's when he needs to get a RACE frame.

How about vice versa, if WeekendWarrior started off with a RACE frame instead of ENDURANCE frame? He will have trouble getting the bike to properly fit him as WeekendWarrior is unable to lean comfortably to reach the low handlebar as the RACE frame head-tube is short. He’ll suffer back-aches and shoulder pains. UNLESS, he uses a high-rise stem which…you know…kind of looks ugly…but then it does give him a proper fit. Only thing is how long he can stand looking at the up-standing stem without thinking of buying a new frame every minute he sees his bike.

In short,

Endurance frame has taller head-tube, suits majority riding population (WeekendWarrior) who rides slightly more upright.

Race frame has short head-tube, suits low leaning Speedracer.

Are you able to see the correlation between rider capability vs frame TYPE now?

D) Conclusion:

Body HEIGHT only determines a RANGE of frame sizes a rider can choose from.

However, CAPABLITY determines riding POSTURE, which then determines the EXACT bike fitments (here means size and type of frame) suitable for the rider at that very given point of time.  

Bike fitments might (or might not) get outdated across time based on:
- cycling habits: frequency, intensity and consistency.
- other sporting programs: yoga, gym, running, etc.
- fitness improvement/deterioration: stamina, flexibility, injuries, etc.

SUMMARY ALL THE ABOVE:

Scenario 1:

WeekendWarriorA buys a brand new RACE bike, spends RM7k. 

After 3 months, he thought he bought a bike sized too big because he was unable to lean to reach the bars comfortably having backaches and sore shoulders. The real problem is that he has a slow riding style which puts him in a more upright posture, reaching out to the handlebar is an over-stretch for him.

Assuming he needs a smaller bike, he sold off RACE bike at RM5.5k. 

Then he makes a mistake buying another new RACE Bike, only smaller in size this time thinking it will shorten the reach. Another RM7k spent. 

Now he faces problem with head-tube too short and handlebars too low. Then he decided to get a bike fit for RM420 to solve fitting issues.

After bike fitting session, he cannot stand the look of an up-standing stem which makes his race bike looks like a touring bike. He decided to sell off smaller RACE bike at RM5.5k.

Finally, based on fit dimensions from the bike fit session, he bought a correctly fitted ENDURANCE bike at RM7k. 

Total spent RM10.42k and ends up with RM7k bike.

Scenario 2:

WeekendWarriorB buys RM1.5k used bike roughly within his fit, rides it for two months with pains and sores, then got a RM420 bike fit which improved overall riding experience.

He continued to ride for another 2-3 months, he got a fit-update to sort out final fit dimensions. At this point he might be lucky for the used bike to fit him well, he can choose to keep riding it or sell off to get an upgrade. If bike fitter says the bike is way too big or too small for him, then he can proceed to upgrade safely with fitting dimensions provided by bike fitter.

Let's say he decided to sell off the bike at RM1.3k. 

Then he buys a new ENDURANCE bike at RM7k with the correct fit dimensions. 

Total spent RM7.62k and ends up with a RM7k bike.

Hope my article made sense. It does right?

----- END -----

To understand more about bike fitting, please visit: 
www.littlerockcycles.com 
www.Facebook.com/LittleRockCycles


For further information on pricing & contact, go here:
http://littlerockcycles.blogspot.com/2014/08/pricing-and-what-to-bring-along.html

Contact: 012-232-4868 Chuah (Watsapp/SMS or call) .

Google/Waze Location: Jalan Hujan Bukit
Located in: Taman OUG, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (nearby Bukit Jalil & Sri Petaling)

Thanks very much. Ride safe and have fun..!!

Why You Can't Get It Right?

Have you ever wondered why bike fitting tips from cycling magazines or bike shop online videos rarely work out well when you try to DIY at home? 

Most of you who have tried these adjustments yourself will usually set off a never-ending chain-reaction of issues, where the numbness/pain/stiffness/strain moved from one part of the body to another, like chasing a rabbit around the forest.

Here’s a common scenario that most of us can relate to: Too much pressure at the groin causing saddle sores, along with unstable upper-body sways when pedaling.

What’s the most common answer you get from internet? Saddle height too high.

Then automatically we’ll search for saddle height calculation formulas (e.g. 0.883, 1.09, etc) and set the saddle height as recommended.

You may have followed the numbers/angles/equations/formulas and yet still couldn’t get it right, right? Why?

1. Every person’s anatomy is different. Every 5ft 8in does not wear the same shoe size, does not have the same torso/femur/arm/etc lengths.
2. Limitation of physical flexibility and capability.
3. Pedaling and weight distribution techniques are incorrectly applied.
4. Influenced by incorrect information gathered from cycling buddies who mistakenly diagnosed tell-tale signs from your body movement when out cycling, causing you to make adjustments which brings you further away from the ideal setting.

The most common mistake is to have the saddle tipped down too much, causing the sit-bones to slide forward and end up with perineum area compressed against the nose of the saddle. Hence, too much pressure at the groin causing saddle sores, along with unstable upper-body sways as body naturally tilts trying to reduce pressure at the groins. 

But...I can say that many toe dippers who came in for a bike fit are not actually toe dippers. They look like they are pedaling like toe dippers, but in actual fact they are seating too high that the pedals are pulling on the cleats at the bottom of stroke. And yet they claim that they are not seating high enough because cycling buddies told them that he/she has too much bend in the knees when pedaling. Effect of this? Too much pressure at the groin causing saddle sore, along with unstable upper-body sways when pedaling.

BUT...that's not just it...an observant bike fitter will tell you that the saddle shape might be unsuitable for you as the sit bones do not have a stable platform to rest on, hence putting more pressure on perineum soft tissues. With this, cyclist will experience too much pressure at the groin causing saddle sores, along with unstable upper-body sways too trying to reduce pressure at the groins. 

Side-note: I always say this, out of 10 models by a saddle brand, only 1 will fit your pelvis, hence the reason they make 10 models, which are meant to fit 10 different kinds of pelvis shape. 

With one symptom comes three suggestive solutions, however there's more than just these three.

The above example is just one of the many things a bike fitter should be able to observe, analyse and put forward reasonable adjustments during a fit session. 

On top of taking in the bike and body as a whole when bike fitting, we need to take into consideration the cyclist's current capability, training program and goals. And be realistic about it.

We can’t have high propulsion (body weight forward, handlebars low) setting on a road bike and expect the shoulders and neck to be pain free for 160km race, when your weekly ride distances are 40km at most. 

Vice versa we cannot expect a cyclist with 45km/h average on a rocket setting tri-bike to feel sore-free on a slow and steady 25km/h Sunday group ride. Yes, riding too slow on a fast setting bike will cause sores and pains too.

With all the explanations above, you would have correctly guessed that bike fitting is indeed individual and personal. There’s no single generalized formula or method that will work for every individual, and it is the job of a bike fitter analyse all the issues faced by customer and work out a balanced solution for them. Bike fitting is truly a balancing act.

To understand more about bike fitting, please visit: 
www.littlerockcycles.com 
www.Facebook.com/LittleRockCycles


For further information on pricing & contact, go here:
http://littlerockcycles.blogspot.com/2014/08/pricing-and-what-to-bring-along.html

Contact: 012-232-4868 Chuah (Watsapp/SMS or call) .

Google/Waze Location: Jalan Hujan Bukit
Located in: Taman OUG, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (nearby Bukit Jalil & Sri Petaling)

Thanks very much. Ride safe and have fun..!!

Customer Testimonials

2014-Oct-28: Post Melaka Century 150km ride review from my customer. He's 57 years old and such an impressive achievement..!! 

2014-Oct-6: Customer did his first and longest 200km ride few days after bike fitting..!! He was having a painful right foot before with 80-90km rides. We switched out his saddle as the old one was too narrow and he was rocking side to side. We did some cleat rotation adjustments and worked on his pedalling technique and problem solved:






































All the way from Seremban came a live-to-ride, ride-to-live seasoned rider who was previously capable of 200-250km per week until knee pain started 6 months back. After some discussion and measurements, we suspected foot-tilt-angle (FTA) was the main culprit which was silently destroying his knee as he was riding with a self-compensating knee position to achieve comfort and this eventually turned into a habit. We installed some wedges and spacers to straighten up his knee-to-pedal alignment. Following 3 weeks of riding he's pretty much back into his old form and knee pains are gone:








Customer who came for bike fit due to minor discomfort, however he gained more than just comfort after being taught proper weight distribution technique:





Arm and neck discomforts are commonly caused wrongly sized handlebar. Wider doesn't mean more stable, as the following is a case where i installed a narrower bar for a lady customer and she end up having better control of her bike:





Pedalling efficiency is the key to enjoy road biking:





Here's a junior 14yrs old cyclist who is just starting out and have a bike sized too big for him, suffering from backaches, arm soreness and muscle strain. We swapped out and dropped in a straight seat post to correct his leg angles, then reduced reach of stem, and finally worked on pedalling technique as well:

To understand more about bike fitting, please visit: 
www.littlerockcycles.com 
www.Facebook.com/LittleRockCycles


For further information on pricing & contact, go here:
http://littlerockcycles.blogspot.com/2014/08/pricing-and-what-to-bring-along.html

Contact: 012-232-4868 Chuah (Watsapp/SMS or call) .

Google/Waze Location: Jalan Hujan Bukit
Located in: Taman OUG, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (nearby Bukit Jalil & Sri Petaling)

Thanks very much. Ride safe and have fun..!!